Last evening in Astana

We went back into the city centre tonight to try some Indian cuisine since we haven't had a curry for two months. A guide book in our hotel listed a restaurant called East - West, so we decided to give it a try. This restuarant serves food from a variety of countries but we learned that the owner is Indian so it sounded spot-on to us. It turned out to be one of the wee gems that you only find once in a while. The food was absolutely fantastic, so much so, that we asked to speak to the chef to thank him personally. Out from the kitchen came Sunil Gopal, who was not only the chef but also the proprietor. It is obvious that he takes immense pride in his cooking.

We exchanged stories and learned that Sunil originates from the south of India and has been in Astana for 7 years. He worked in some of the most upmarket hotels in the Middle East and here in Astana before establishing his own business. He is also a biker and has in the past owned a 1000cc BMW. He was keen to see our machines, so at the close of business (we arrived there late), he gave us a lift back to the hotel where we gave him a rundown on the BMW Adventures before snapping some pictures.

So, if you intend to visit Astana and you want a top quality meal, good service and reasonable price, then why not dine at East-West Restaurant, Ave Kabanbay batyra, 2/2 tel +7 (7172) 24 30 54.

Some photos from Astana

 

Riding in Kazakhstan

We left Russia after meeting a fantastic couple (Susie and Dave Cable) on their adventure from new Zealand to UK by 4x4 truck. They came through China and Kazakhstan and were able to give us some tips for the journey. They also helped us by giving us a good Kazak map which has proved very useful. We wish Susie and Dave a safe journey onward to UK. You can follow Dave and Susie's adventures by visiting their blog at http://www.travelpod.com/members/nz2uk

Onward through the vast plains of Kazakhstan where there are planted fields that stretch as far as the eye can see followed by grassland and the odd scattering of trees. The roads are good in places and terrible in others. You are on guard all the time as the smooth asphalt can change to ruts or potholes in seconds. When this happens all other cars and trucks weave to avoid the holes which adds to the tricky situation. Had a good run towards Astana with a camp overnight. We camped in a field about 3 miles from the main road and immediately got attacked by mosquitoes. The the nets and sprays were soon out. The weather was good so we camped without tents and used only mosquito nets. The darkness and massive sky gave us an amazing view of the stars and satellites

Back on the road we stopped at a small café. As usual we were approached by people asking what we were doing. One of them said he had a daughter at Warwick university and then started to talk about ‘Souvenir’. He ran into the café and told us there were no souvenirs so we must eat. At this stage another car load of youths arrive. One of them got out and took a photo of the bikes. He then mentioned souvenir. He went back to the car and brought us a bottle of beer. We went into the café with the first bloke and had some food and some Peach Compot. This is a lovely drink with peaches floating in it…mmmm! He left after a drink as his family were outside in the car. We had a nice meal and went to pay before being told that the first chap had paid our bill as a souvenir. Just then an off duty police major came into the café. We gave him an IPA badge and he left before returning a few minutes later with a bottle of vodka…..yes you guessed it….a souvenir. Very touching kindness from very warm hearted people. The staff at the café made a big fuss of us and we feel most welcome everywhere we go.

Back on the road we came across herds of horses. Horse culture in Kazakhstan is big. They ride them and they eat them…riding them first and then eating them! The herdsman approached us a we were taking photos. He was on a white pony and looked the part except for the Ipod. He offered us a ride on the horse which we accepted albeit on the grounds that the horse did not move during the ride.

Got to Astana with a recommendation of a hotel called Hotel Mukammal. Astana is a huge city with a very modern new town centre. There is building going on everywhere and unfortunately prices reflect this modern image. We tried to find the hotel but to no avail. Gordon suggested that we just park up in a public place and let the crowds come to us before asking where the hotel was. We stopped and within a minute we heard the screech of Lada tyres. Two blokes jumped out and were delighted to see us. They shook our hands and told us that they had seen us on TV and started to take photos. He called his friend who was a taxi driver and got directions to the hotel but not before going to the Lada and getting us a souvenir…a Kazak music CD…a nice gift. Everyone in this city beeps their horn and waves at us. When you stop at traffic light they talk away to you asking where we are from and where we are going and the other usual question…how much doe the bikes cost. I now ask them how much their Lada costs in reply. Such a nice bunch of people. Someone said ‘the worst thing about leaving Kazakhstan is leaving the people behind’. Very true!

Will get some photos from Astana today.

Into Kazakhstan - Monday, 22nd June 2009

We left Chelyabinsk mid morning and headed south. The border with Kazakhstan was an easy 80 mile ride but our secondhand Russian GPS had other plans once we got into border territory!! Eventually, after some off-road riding, we got back onto tarmac and found the crossing point. We joined the queue and waited........ and waited........ Some lorry drivers told us that it takes 2 hours to get through - that's on a good day. Today wasn't good! After 4 and a half hours, we eventually made it to the other side. It had been as much a lengthy process getting out of Russia as it had been entering Kazakhstan.

We rode in a south east direction aiming for the town of Kustany (115 miles). As we entered the outskirts, a group of bikers passed in the opposite direction and tooted and waved. A few minutes later, they caught up with us and we exchanged greetings in a mixture of German, English, Russian and Kazak!!! By this time, they fully understood our requirements - a good hotel at a bargain price with clear directions on how to get there. Simple, we followed them to a hotel, the leader, Duma (Suzuki Intruder), went in, negotiated a price ($40) and we were just about to go ahead when his friend (who rides a Honda CB400F) came rushing over to say he had found a greater bargain across the road at only $16 each for our own room, a deal we couldn't resist (he knew the proprietor). Only snag was that it was on the top floor with no lift but we're used to that now. Secure parking was also available - very important. A quick shower and it was time for piva (beer) and some grub in a local restaurant. After a lengthy wait, the food arrived. It was astounding, very fresh and tremendous value at £10 each for 3 beers, soup and steak with chips - well worth waiting for.

After a good night's rest, we were met at 10.00 by Duma, who drew out directions on our Kazak map on the most scenic routes and best roads (ahem!!!) to take during our incursion into this corner of the country (See photo - Tom and Duma). Kazakhstan is the largest land-locked country in the world, yet only has a population of 8 million people so there is plenty of wide open, empty space. To see the whole country, it would mean staying for a few months, a luxury we didn't have. In a short space of time however, the one thing that is clearly evident is the warmth and friendliness of the people here, as you'll have seen from above and when you read Tom's blog. Thanks and best wishes to the guys and girls at Kostanay R19 Biker's Club - http://www.r19.kz/

Update from Chelyabinsk-Sunday

Chilling here in the sun today as we discovered at breakfast that we have progressed so far east that it was in fact lunch and we had jumped another 2 hours ahead. Good excuse for a breakfast beer and the best coffee we have had in Russia. The place to go for some Thai, Japanese or French grub including GOOD coffee…The Café Vintage near the central square www.cafe-vintage.ru . The manager Katrina and her boyfriend are meeting us for a drink tonight at ….yes…you have guessed….The Irish bar?

Managed to get a map book of Russia at last and then took a couple of photos at the city's main square – attached. Also attached is an interesting photo from yesterday. This is a village made up of many very small houses, almost hut size. They are wooden and some have very ornate carvings around the windows and eaves. Each has an allocation of land which is always cultivated.

Crossing the border into Russia on 15th June 2009

It took us an hour to get out of Ukraine as there seemed to be a problem with Tom's paperwork. At first I thought it was because I had drawn a beard, moustache and glasses on his passport photo but it turned out to be the misinterpretation between numbers and letters of his bike's registration - a simple misunderstanding between letter O and zero. Finally we reached the Russian section of the crossing and spent another hour getting the red tape sorted out. Much to our relief, this process was somewhat trouble-free, so we eventually set off into Russia heading for the nearest cafe. Tom told you about our experience there in his submission below but what he didn't say was that the cafe should have qualified for our Kamikaze Competition. The flusher in the toilet didn't work and the person who had visited the loo before us had failed to grasp the concept of 'flushing' the toilet utilising the bucket of water and ladle supplied by the proprietor. I only hope it wasn't the one and only soup ladle in the premises!!

A couple of miles down the road and we got stopped by the Russian Police at a checkpoint. All 5' 2" of him had us trembling at the knees. The height of the bikes obviously intimidated him into waving us through without much trouble, so that was it, we'd finally made it into Russia. So far it has been an enjoyable experience. The Russian people are warm and friendly - don't be fooled by the initial stony face, that soon disappears (well, usually does!) once we engage with them.

Picture 1 - A couple of kids appreciated a shot of the GS before offering us a fag. Almost everyone smokes here.

Picture 2 - Life on the road can be very stressful at times!!!

Kamikaze Competition

Well, after travelling along the highways and byeways of Ukraine and Russia, I'll never again complain about the facilities at Harthill Service Station on the M8, Edinburgh to Glasgow motorway. Attached, you'll find some fine examples of toilet facilities that we've encountered at the roadside cafes recently. They serve such lovely soup, but........ it's almost suicidal to venture into one of these cesspit cockpits!

I did consider moving into one of these sheds and claiming "Squater's Rights" but then again, maybe not!!

Pimp My Lada- New entries

 

In Chelyabinsk, Russia - 20th June 2009

Travelled over 350 miles today to bring us in striking distance of Kazakhstan. I found a good hotel or ‘Otel’ as they call it and it has WIFI. Our hotel assistant is Vlada (photo),not from Vladavostock and no, Vlada has not got a Lada! Slow journey today with trucks and road works. Weather was dry but a bit cold today. Warm tomorrow!!! My Russian is now so good that the ordinary Russian cannot understand me? Bikes running well…touch wood. Bikes still causing a stir and we are held up every time we stop as photos are taken. Never got stopped by the cops today which is good news. I may be out of range for a few days so hang in there. Photo: At the hotel with Vlada.

Now in Russia

We crossed the Border to Russia  on 15^th June and have not come across WIFI internet so far. This is now the 19^th. We can only assume that it will be few and far between until Vladivistock. Border crossing took about 2 hours of stamping papers but no real hassle. Pulled into a café and got the worst coffee ever. I now drink only tea in Russia. We had some local soup and tried to pay using a 1000 rouble note. They could not change it  even though it was only a £20 note. It took 20 minutes of negotiation to allow payment in US Dollars. We did not give her all she asked as her exchange rate was a bit off. We promised however to drop it in the next time we were passing. What a dive! Some of the toilets here are unbelievable. We are thinking of doing a ‘Pimp my toilet’ competition but we think the photos would put people off looking at the bog….I mean the Blog! We passed along the motorway to Volgograd and have stayed at some roadside guesthouses ( about £16 a night).  They are good value. The roads are okay so far and the police are everywhere. We get stopped once a day but have learned to tell them we are ‘Colleagua from Shatlandia’. They then tell you to go and that is it. Every now and then there is a checkpoint and we now hide behind a truck and try and sneak through. The Russian drivers have created a third lane where only 2 exist and overtake between the 2 lanes. You need to have your wits about you. Stopped on the banks of the Volga and had a few drinks with the locals. We are a great source of amusement to them and there are no English speakers so our Lonely Planet language books are an asset.  Toward the Khazak border tomorrow and probably get there in about 3 days.

Still in our hotel in Berdians'k - 13th June 2009

We are still waiting to make the move to Russia next Monday 15^th June. Our hotel (Hotel Arena) is a great wee place. Bikes parked in a secure yard, 24 hour reception and bikes right outside the apartments. (Co-ordinates for GPS for fellow travellers, (N 46° 44.632 - E 036° 48.122). Tel.8 (050 ) 420-47-20. They treat us like part of the family here and we are having a group photo today (Friday) ( Photo). Vasiliy is translating an explanation of our journey into Russian which we will put on the inside of our top-boxes. This will help when trying to tell the locals what we are doing. People think we are crazy. Olga, who runs the café here has never been out of this small town. She is about 25 years old. People do not travel much here so our journey seems amazing to them. Olga is fascinated by our photos of the places we have been to and of home. We visited the next major town from here which is about 200km. She was wanting to see photos of it as she has never been there. She is however, our Russian language teacher and it is now flowing out like natives……the 6 words that we can say that is!!! We have got to know some local bikers who are lovely people who look after us (Photo). We meet them most evenings for a beer (Sach, Sacha, Sacha and Marianne). They clubbed in and bought us a shot glass for drinking vodka with the Russians. A nice gift that we will bring back as a memento of our time her. Had an awesome thunder storm last night and lightning like I have never seen before. Its slowly clearing today and the sun has just come out. The mosquitoes have started to eat us and that is one thing we are not looking forward to further east. By the way, Graeme Bruce…my hair is not grey… I am in my blonde phase so please change the order from ‘Just for Men’ to Laurielle Touch of Blonde…” Because I’m Worth It” We met up with some people at the hotel and shared a drink with them. Turned out the bloke was a Russian police officer…small world!

On 14th June, we headed up towards the Ukraine/Russian border at Novoazovs'k. We found a great wee motel run by the lovely Ira (see photo). Cheap, comfortable and a stone's throw from the beach, you'll find this terrific accomodation at N47 05.381, E037 47.047

Pimp My Lada - Further Submission For Ukraine Section

This lovely orange example was spotted by our judges in the town centre area of Berdyans'k, Ukraine. Note that it is in completely original condition but the addition of a colour-coded roof rack makes it a worthy contender. Mr & Mrs S. West from Livingston will have a tear in their eye when they see this as it takes them back to their winching days!!

Photos from Kharkov

Some photos from Kharkov

From Russia With Love........

From Russia With Love........

Our Two Special Agents have infiltrated Russia. Succeeded in covering 350 miles today and have reached Volgograd. Now 3 hours ahead, lovely weather and crazy drivers!

Hotel 16 quid and 40p a pint. Petrol 40p per litre. Outwith wifi cover and will update asap.

No sign of Spectre so far ….. nor gorgeous Bond girls!

Pam

Oh, we do like to be beside the seaside

Monday, 8th June 2009 - Mileage so far - 3793

We woke up to a beautiful morning in Zaporizhzha before setting off on a relaxing 130 mile ride to Berdians'k through the open countryside. This is a seaside resort in the south east of Ukraine overlooking the Azov Sea, next to the Black Sea. We drove around looking for accomodation before being lucky enough to spot a wee cafe/motel which has an enclosed yard where we can safely leave our bikes right outside our apartments. The people at this establishment are really friendly and some English is spoken. In the evening, we met up with some local bikers and we were invited to join them at the Aqua Park where there was a foam party. A great night was had and once again the hospitality of the Ukrainian people shone through. We will be meeting some of the bikers again on Tuesday evening.

Because we have stayed in Ukraine for so long now, we have been conscripted into the Ukrainian Army. Luckily for us we ended up in the Motorcycle Battalion, as you'll see in the picture above (right). The bike and sidecar outfit comes complete with boxer engine, tin helmets and plastic guns.

FW: What a difference a digit makes

For those following the SPOT you will have seen us arrive at the Russian Border then turn back. Our Russian Visas start on the 15^th June but we tried to get in early and hoped they would not notice the digit before the five. However, the Ukrainian border police spotted it and we got the big knock back! We decided then to go to the seaside on the Black Sea coast.

Our arrival at Kharkov was marked by being pulled over by the police. There was a car and 2 motorcycles. They approached us and shook our hands. It was a welcoming from our IPA colleagues and our excellent host Igor and his family. We were escorted by 2 police bikes and a police car to the police hotel. (Photos). Igor then took us to the IPA Office where we had some lovely local food and toasted away a full bottle of vodka…hic! We then had a tour of the city which boasts the biggest town square in Europe. In the square there are sculptures made of salt and the inevitable statue of Lenin. There are numerous churches and statues but the one which impressed was the 2^nd World war memorial. This is a very tall figure with the eternal flame burning at its base. A very impressive and poignant memorial.

In the morning we were taken by blue light escort to the Russian Border. A very big thanks to the Police officers of Kharkov and especially to Igor, Tanya and Christina which made this a very memorable visit. Another big thanks to our good friend Valentyna who set up the meeting and who has been our Guardian Angel on our Ukrainian Tour.

Pimp my Lada Competition

Here in Ukraine the Lada still rules. We presume it will be the same in Russia so we will published the first two of the  best of Pimped Ladas for your vote. The wifi in this area is very limited so we find it hard to publish to the blog. We grab peoples wifi and hope for the best.

Rewind back to Budapest for 5 mins

What can I say... there I was sitting in open air cafes drinking and eating Carrot cake in the centre of Budapest while you busy lads were rushing around in 30deg heat, trying to get your Visa's sorted! I was delighted to know that you knew what your priorities where. Good to speak to you lads while I was there though.
 
I've attached some photos of Budapest for the places you didn't see while you were there. The last picture, as you can see is a tram. As they will be coming to Edinburgh soon I though I would experience at first hand what it is like to travel on this form of transport. I travelled from Buda across the river Danube to Pest and back on one of these ultra modern trams - very effecient, clean and quick. Budapest has the advantage of wide roads so the trams go up the middle of them while two lanes of traffic go either side. Obviously there town council were thinking ahead when planning future public transport unlike back here in Edinburgh!
 
Just make sure you guys keep to the speed limit and use your diplomatic touch when next speaking to the polis on the road. Maybe you could offer them some elastic bands for their wooden speed cameras.
 
I've noticed from the pictures you have been publishing that your hair is looking a bit on the grey side Tom, so I've spoken to the Russian authorities and arranged a batch of "Just For Men" hair dye. Hopefully you will receive that when you cross the border - if not, phone "Boots" the Chemist.
 
Good luck as you continue on your journey!
Graeme

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Kiev and the SUN!

Hey! We are in sunny Kiev. Kiev is a beautiful city which is very European. There is lovely architecture and café bars etc with an eastern touch. Took the bikes to BMW Kiev and had a great reception from all the staff. They are called AWT Bavaria (ask for Vladimir) who will sort you out if your Beemer need seeing to in Ukraine. awt@bmw.ua They speak English but this was not really needed as our Ukrainian is getting really good. Anyway…great service, reasonable prices and they washed the bikes! Had a wander round Kiev and they have the most amazing traffic congestion you have ever seen. All calm but chaotic and you eventually get there. They are a patient people! Tonight we met Borys the bear and the lovely Valentya who are IPA members here in Kiev. Valentyna has been fantastic and has kept in touch all through our journey in Ukraine. Borys in a senior officer in the police here and is a great character with 56 medals. He has been part of the Kosovan Mission and is a highly skilled and recognises authority in close protection and public order. He is a Colonel in the Police Academy here in Kiev and a well travelled individual who has travelled professionally and as part of his sport as a kick boxer. We move towards the Russian border tomorrow and hope to meet with some more colleagues there. Gordon the wimp amazed us all in the arm wrestling competition by beating Borys...if you beleive that one?.... but Tom made it a double by beating Valentyna. Toward Russsia tomorrow!

The rain in Ukraine falls mainly on...........Us!!

Wednesday, 3rd June 2009. Day 5 in Ukraine and it's still chucking it down! We only had 100 miles left in our journey to Kiev and there was no let up in the weather along the way. By lunchtime we had arrived and during our search for a hotel, the sun finally broke through and started to dry us out. After a 3 hour tour of the city, we located to the Hotel President, a lovely establishment near the city centre. Very soon, we'll run out of these kind of options so we'll enjoy it while we can. Found a great wee bar/restuarant a mere 20 minute walk from the hotel and decided to eat there - it was a lucky find because the food was absolutely tremendous and only cost £15 each, including 4 or 5 beers. Now back at the hotel, catching up with the admin over a coffee. A very nice blonde lady asked if I would like a massage after my work, what a good service the hotel staff provide!!!! Indeed..... Anyway, an early night is on the cards because the bikes have to be serviced at the BMW dealer Thursday 10.00. Our East European secondhand GPS unit is up and running and proved its worth in town today. Turned out I had a convertor in my box of electrical leads.

Near Kiev

Started out this morning in the dry and headed in the Kiev direction. All was well for the first 5 minutes until the local police pointed out that the speed limit in ‘the village’ was 60kph. He showed us a thing that looked like a wooden speed gun and alas the number said ‘75’. As there was no houses for about half a mile and that the road was a divided dual carriageway we concluded that it was not in the village and there was the other disputed fact that we were not doing 75kph. We are a prime target as there are no other motorcycled here worth talking about. Everyone notices the bikes and stop and look. Anyway the three cops surrounded us and asked what happens in this case in Scotland. We told him, of coarse, we always got a warning. They threatened us with ‘protocol’ and had a small discussion after which they told us to get on our way….Nice? We continued on the potholes which is the main road to Kiev. There is signs of major road construction but a lack of constructors. Social life of the road comprises of switching off you engine ant a contra-flow and have a half hour chat with the workies. Everyone asks how much the bikes cost so we now tell them that they are ‘pro-kat’ or hired.

 

Anyway, continued on the potholes that got filled with water that constantly pours from the Ukrainian sky. They tell us that there was no rain for over 6 weeks …….until the day we arrived. It is still raining. Got to about 3pm when we saw the cops lining up for another stop. Alas we right! This time we overtook on a non overtaking area at 116kph. Dependant on the length of stay we may be getting a more serious charge each time we get stopped…so maybe murder next week??? This time they took Gordon to the car and left me with another chatty cop. They checked the papers and then not much for me for about 5 mins. Gordon shouted to me from the car and told me that they would not ‘protocol’ us for 100euros. Gordon had not agreed and went into his glove compartment grabbed his pen and notebook and asked him for his name. By this time I got to the car and Gordon told me of the ridiculous request. I also said and emphatic  ‘no’ and also asked him for his name and station. He looked, by this time like a bullied schoolboy and Gordon grabbed the documents back from him. He grabbed them back and I started to rant about harassment. He threw the documents back to us and told us to leave. His 2 friends who were outside pretending to stop other cars jumped in and they sped off tooting the horn as they left. We will tell you all about tomorrow’s road traffic offences which are being concocted as we speak.

 

Attached a photo from Ukraine

 

Fun to com……The TGM bad guys.

We salute you

Guys.... here is a picture of me and Callum in the trike. Callum is wearing the 'genuine' Russian tank commander helmet that we haggeled for at checkpoint Charlie in Berlin. He wanted me to send it to you. He thinks it is cool you are going round the world and asks "Why dont we catch you up and go round the world with you because he has a week off school! David.

Onwards to L'Viv - Monday,1st June 2009

We left Uzgorod this morning and the weather looked promising. We have 3 days to reach Kiev, a total of 800 kms (500 miles). First mistake of the day was to rely on the Garmin satnavs but the world maps are sketchy for Eastern European coverage. We did manage to get hold of a secondhand alternative satnav with the appropriate maps on SD card but we need a convertor for the charger so, for the time being it ain't much use to us. Ignoring the first sign for Kiev and following the Garmins, we ended up with a blank screen showing that we were off road after 10 miles!!!! Anyway, knowing that we were going in the right general direction, we continued on the scenic road then decided to cut eastwards across country to reach the main road to Kiev. After 12 miles on the eastbound road, it eventually became a gravel track, then a mud track - time to do a U-Turn. After that the heavens opened up, followed by thunder and lightning and a huge downpour. The day's pleasant ride turned into an arduous final leg but eventually, we reached L'Viv and found a very comfortable and reasonably priced hotel. 140 miles on the clock but probably only 100 miles of progress. The gear is now hanging up to dry and we are re-acquanting ourselves with Madame Artois in the restaurant. First mission tomorrow is to buy a convertor for the Eastern Europe sat nav charger.