Riding in Kazakhstan

We left Russia after meeting a fantastic couple (Susie and Dave Cable) on their adventure from new Zealand to UK by 4x4 truck. They came through China and Kazakhstan and were able to give us some tips for the journey. They also helped us by giving us a good Kazak map which has proved very useful. We wish Susie and Dave a safe journey onward to UK. You can follow Dave and Susie's adventures by visiting their blog at http://www.travelpod.com/members/nz2uk

Onward through the vast plains of Kazakhstan where there are planted fields that stretch as far as the eye can see followed by grassland and the odd scattering of trees. The roads are good in places and terrible in others. You are on guard all the time as the smooth asphalt can change to ruts or potholes in seconds. When this happens all other cars and trucks weave to avoid the holes which adds to the tricky situation. Had a good run towards Astana with a camp overnight. We camped in a field about 3 miles from the main road and immediately got attacked by mosquitoes. The the nets and sprays were soon out. The weather was good so we camped without tents and used only mosquito nets. The darkness and massive sky gave us an amazing view of the stars and satellites

Back on the road we stopped at a small café. As usual we were approached by people asking what we were doing. One of them said he had a daughter at Warwick university and then started to talk about ‘Souvenir’. He ran into the café and told us there were no souvenirs so we must eat. At this stage another car load of youths arrive. One of them got out and took a photo of the bikes. He then mentioned souvenir. He went back to the car and brought us a bottle of beer. We went into the café with the first bloke and had some food and some Peach Compot. This is a lovely drink with peaches floating in it…mmmm! He left after a drink as his family were outside in the car. We had a nice meal and went to pay before being told that the first chap had paid our bill as a souvenir. Just then an off duty police major came into the café. We gave him an IPA badge and he left before returning a few minutes later with a bottle of vodka…..yes you guessed it….a souvenir. Very touching kindness from very warm hearted people. The staff at the café made a big fuss of us and we feel most welcome everywhere we go.

Back on the road we came across herds of horses. Horse culture in Kazakhstan is big. They ride them and they eat them…riding them first and then eating them! The herdsman approached us a we were taking photos. He was on a white pony and looked the part except for the Ipod. He offered us a ride on the horse which we accepted albeit on the grounds that the horse did not move during the ride.

Got to Astana with a recommendation of a hotel called Hotel Mukammal. Astana is a huge city with a very modern new town centre. There is building going on everywhere and unfortunately prices reflect this modern image. We tried to find the hotel but to no avail. Gordon suggested that we just park up in a public place and let the crowds come to us before asking where the hotel was. We stopped and within a minute we heard the screech of Lada tyres. Two blokes jumped out and were delighted to see us. They shook our hands and told us that they had seen us on TV and started to take photos. He called his friend who was a taxi driver and got directions to the hotel but not before going to the Lada and getting us a souvenir…a Kazak music CD…a nice gift. Everyone in this city beeps their horn and waves at us. When you stop at traffic light they talk away to you asking where we are from and where we are going and the other usual question…how much doe the bikes cost. I now ask them how much their Lada costs in reply. Such a nice bunch of people. Someone said ‘the worst thing about leaving Kazakhstan is leaving the people behind’. Very true!

Will get some photos from Astana today.